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FYI

Wagoner, OK

(417)276-0280

 hyppnn@netzero.com

 

 

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A Bunch of Boring Information!

Jessi and I work very hard to offer you health, happy, well socialized puppies. Our dogs are our family. It is very important to us that you are happy and well educated about us and our policies. If you are happy, then we know you will love our puppies and welcome them into your homes. Please take the time to read all of the information on the pages of our website. I know that there is a lot of print and much of it has been repeated on many pages. We want to make sure that you are well informed and have no questions about us or your new puppy. Our "Home", "Dogs", "Puppies For Sale" and "Cattle Dog Puppies" pages as well as this page all have information that is important for you to read and understand.

When you get a puppy from us, it has never been on concrete, in a kennel, crate or a wire cage. Our puppies come from our family to yours.

You are welcome to come and pick your puppy up when it is ready to leave however we don't let people come on our place just to look. That keeps us from having germs walked onto our property that could be life threatening to our puppies.

We do not stand our male dogs for stud service.

Our MINI Heelers/Cattle Dogs are 100% PUREBRED HEELERS. It has taken us years and years to breed the size down in our dogs while keeping the great Heeler personality, beautiful Heeler look and a healthy puppy that we are proud to give you a 1 Year Health Guarantee on. There is a breeder in Oregon that crosses Chihuahuas with Australian Cattle Dogs/Blue Heelers and are advertising them them as "Purebred Toy and Mini Heelers". They have recently composed a neat story saying that they have been raising Heelers for 25-30 years and have imported their dogs. All of which is a lie. The owner of the kennel contacted me personally a couple of years ago (this is 2010) all excited because they had JUST started raising "mini and toy" Heelers and using Chihuahuas to get them little...... came right from his mouth to me. We have people contact us every week with sad stories about the health problems they are having with their Chihuahua Heeler cross puppies that they have bought from these breeders. We don't care what anyone else does with their breeding program, breed all of the "exotic" or "hybrid" breeds that you want to, just be honest about it. Don't call them a purebred if they are not. I'm sure there are many people that would be happy to buy the "exotic" cross. Calling them purebreds when they are not is not fair to the buyers that are being misled and it is very unfair to the puppies who have done nothing wrong but are not what they are being sold as. Our puppies are 100% Heelers. Their parents aren't crossed with any toy or mini breeds to make them small. It has taken us years and years of hard work and a lot of planning to be able to produce a beautiful healthy Heeler puppy that will mature 12-14 inches tall and 15-30 lbs. If that sounds big to you remember a standard Heeler is 16 inches or better with many over 20 inches tall and 45-65 lbs as an average. We hear from people all of the time that has a mature male Heeler that has topped 80 lbs.

After you get your new puppy do not take it to a dog park, public trails, Petsmart or any place where there are other dogs and it can be exposed to germs until it has all three of the shots in it's puppy series. Remember, your new puppy is not protected from transmittable diseases until it has had all of the shots in it's series.

dog.com is our favorite place to order all of our toys and treats. They have great deals on their clearance items and always a huge selection! We usually order every week... rawhide lollipops and Christmas tress are big favorites at our house!

Our New Puppy House!!

Just off of the truck and right beside our house!

Here is the inside before we got started on it.

Puppies playing in their new room! The house now has 5 puppy "rooms".

Our puppy house is done!

There are covered outside runs with doggie doors for each inside room.

How cute is that?

 Sue and her puppies checking out their new house.

 

It's a Red or Blue Heeler... not a Healer.... they are called "heelers" because they work behind stock, or "heel" them.... they are not doctors... they don't heal.... we understand if you are not familiar with our breed that the spelling of the name is confusing... everyone makes mistakes.

All deposits and payments that are made on the puppies are non-refundable. If you decide that you do not want a puppy after you have put a deposit on it you have credit towards any other puppy we have at anytime in the future. 

Our Dog Food

 We get our dog food from Stillwater Milling, we use their A & M Dog Foods, they are custom mixes made locally here in Oklahoma. All of our moms and puppies get the A & M Advantage Professional (it has 26% protein and 18% fat) and all of the rest of our dogs get A & M Advantage High Protein High Energy. Everyone has free choice food 24 hours a day. Our adult dogs have bulk feeders that keep their food clean and dry. Our moms and puppies have 2 dishes of food available to them all of the time, one is our food dry and one is our food moistened in water, it is soft but not soupy. This encourages our puppies to start eating as soon as their eyes are open and  helps keep good weight on our moms while they are nursing. Their soaked food is taken out both morning and night and replaced with fresh, that way it doesn't get dirty or spoiled.

Whatever you chose to feed your puppy remember to check the label, the first ingredient should ALWAYS be meat. Many of the top brands that you would automatically trust and are some of the most respected and expensive dog foods have corn listed as their first ingredient.

Our puppies are started on Milk Replacer at 3 weeks old and get it 2X a day until they leave. They love it; they are fat and beautiful on their milk replacer and mom. The moms get to go out and take a break from their kids and then they finish up the puppies milk replacer after their puppies are done. Our moms love it and the high fat, calories and nutrients is as helpful to them as their puppies.

 

We reserved the right to refuse the sale of a puppy to any person for any reason. Our decisions are final and not negotiable. That applies from the first email or phone conversation right up to the time we ship the puppy to you or you are scheduled to pick it up.

We would like to give a warning to everyone about vaccines.

Any shot that contains the carona virus in it is dangerous for your dogs. You may be one of the lucky ones that won't lose your pet after you give the shot or you could not be so lucky. There has been a lot of research about using carona virus in canine vaccines and it is really not a good way to go. The 7 way shot and some 5 way shots contains carona virus.

A puppy that is less than 12 weeks old is TOO YOUNG for any vaccine that includes LEPO. We DO NOT VACCINATE OUR PUPPIES WITH ANY VACCINE THAT INCLUDES LEPTO until they are OVER 6 months old. MANY many people contact us in tears because they or THEIR VET used a vaccine that included Lepto and their puppy died.

We have had trouble with Pfizer Vanguard Plus 5 vaccines. We would recommend avoiding this vaccine. Pfizer did admit fault, however that ment nothing to us or the people whose puppies died from the vaccine. This is NOT the first or only case that we have heard or experienced with Pfizer vaccines or monthly flea treatments.

Any puppy that has had it's first puppy shot will test positive for parvovirus, when you take it to have it's health check if there is a parvo test done your puppy will have a positive test result. The vaccine that includes parvo is a live virus, after getting the shot the puppy's immune system starts building antigens against the virus to protect it. If you get a puppy and have a parvo test run on it and it comes back negative the puppy has NOT had it's first shot, regardless of what you were told.

We would like to ask everyone to consider joining us in donating to pedigree.com and the humane society to help shelter dogs.

Why is that puppy's ears curled back?

Sometimes a puppy's ears will stand up so fast that they curl back.... that is a VERY good thing! They will eventually uncurl and stand up straight. We consider this trait to be very desirable. If you talk to us on the phone and we tell that a "puppy's ears are up like radars" this is what we mean.

 

Are Heelers Good With Kids?

Probably 90% of our puppies go to families with either small children in the home or grandkids. Heelers are great family pets, they will play with your children until they are played out! Since they are instinctual herding dogs Heelers "fixate" on their people. They want to be where ever you are and do what ever you are doing 100% of the time. They won't always like new people but they love the ones that they are raised with. Our dogs have intentionally to be bred to be companions as well as work if their family wants them to. Ninety-nine percent of our puppies will never herd anything more than their kids in the yard but all of our dogs will go to stock if they have the opportunity. We have been told by other people that they have heard that Heelers are not good family dogs. If you have a Heeler that is only bred to work cattle, they can be extremely aggressive. It is important if you are looking for a Heeler for a companion or for your children that you get a puppy from a breeder that is producing dogs with good minds. We have many puppies that have grown up and are now being used as service dogs and in nursing homes.

 

House Training Your Puppy

Heelers are usually very easy to house train. They are super smart, when you see your new puppy walking around looking for something that isn't there... take him outside, he is looking for a place to potty. After he wakes up from a nap or eats, he will need to go potty. Our puppies are doggy door trained so they are used to going outside to potty but they are not used to waiting to go. If they need to go they just run outside and go. They are also used to going potty on pine shavings, it is often helpful to put some shavings outside on the ground where you want him to go so when you take him out he has a place to potty that seems familiar to him. Many people will get a medium size box and put shavings in it for their puppy to use if they have to be away from home for long enough that their new puppy can't wait until they come back home. If you have to leave for several hours to go to work or do something we suggest putting your puppy in a small room in the house that does not have carpet on the floor but is still heated or cooled with his toys, bed, food, a radio and his shavings/litter box; laundry room or kitchen is usually good. Remember he is a baby so be patient, your love when he does good is much more affective than punishment when he has an accident.

 

Here is a question for you....... "My puppy/dog is itching or scratches all of the time"

Our puppy parents are as a whole very careful with their puppies and if anything may over do some treatments. Once you are sure that your puppy does not have fleas (I have to say though we am VERY proud of the jobs that you guys are doing taking care of your babies), over treating their skin with several different products will actually make them itch more.... that "loving them too much" thing. We use a really good product called "Calm Coat" It is great for any kind of itching or skin irritation; hot spots, rashes, dry flaky skin, you name it this stuff is great.  Calm Coat also repels all kinds of insects. It works great on your horses too.  The second product  we use is Shapleys MTG, it actually is supposed to make hair grow 3 inches in 1 month, I don't know if that is true but, we use it on hotspots and it is great for dry, flakey, itchy skin. Like Calm Coat it is kind of oily.  If one does not fix an itchy puppy or dog the other one usually will.  We use both of these products on ourselves. If that does not work, our boy Poncho gets an allergy shot every month, it has been a life saver for him.

 

Many people ask us what wormer we use? What vaccines? Here are some examples of the products that we use in the care of our puppies.

Coccidia is the number one cause of loose stool in puppies. If a puppy has a positive test for coccida it means that it has a little parasite in it's intestines. The treatment for coccidia is Albon. You can get Albon from your vet it does require a prescription. As a precaution, every puppy of ours has a treatment or two of Albon before it leaves us. Depending on the vet and the dosage that they suggest treatment will last 1 to 2 weeks.

We use 2 different kinds of wormer; Pyrantel Pamoate can be purchased over the counter and does not require a prescription. We use Liqui-Care for horses, we use a lot of it so we get the big bottle. The kind we use is a horse wormer, but it is all the same.

Our most commonly used wormer is Fenbendazole there are 2 ways to get it, Panacur requires a prescription or you can get Safe-Guard which is the very same thing only you can buy it over the counter. This wormer given 2 days in a row is also affective against Giardia.

Tri-Care is the very best ointment that we have ever used. It is great for hot spots, any kind of irritated skin or sores, among other ingredients it has emu oil, tea tree oil, menthol and citronella oil in it. We love it. You will find it where horse products are sold.

This is the vaccine that we use on our puppies. The label that was on the vial will be pealed off and put on your puppy's shot and worming record so you can show it to your vet. Remember puppies are too young for any vaccine that has corona or lepto included in it until after they are 12 weeks old. Giving a vaccine that includes either corona or lepto can cost your puppy it's life.

Here is a another question for you....... "My puppy's ear or ears have not stood up yet ..... what do I do?"

 To start with please try not to handle your new puppy's ears and encourage your children not to play with their ears. If it's ears are not up in a couple of weeks after you get it or it is 3 months old, then get some athletic tape, we find the wider is better, hold the ear up and put a circle of tape around the ear right where it bends. Puppies play very hard here before they leave and at your home after you get them. Here are some examples of taping their ears;

Thanks Marcia for sharing photos of pretty Callie and her  "Double D Ears"!! Callie's mom is Abby and her dad is Cowboy.

Ryder's mom found a great way to get his ears to stay up online using soft hair rollers that she bought at Wal-Mart. It took 3-4 weeks but she said they stayed in his ears much better than the tape alone. I know we are going to try this the next time we have stubborn puppy ears! (Ryder's parents are Chili Pepper and Rowdy)

Here is another question for you....... "I bought a male puppy from you 9 months ago and now he is barking at the neighbors and running at our yard fence at strangers.... what do I do?"

Our first question for you is did you have him neutered? When your answer is no you have not (which it will be) we are going to remind you that he is a male and old enough now to be protecting "his" territory. As a pet owner YOU have to be a responsible for the care of your pets. If you are not going to use your male puppy for breeding, have him neutered early. We will help you rehome our puppies, but don't make us sorry that we sold you one of them because you did not do your part. Cattle Dogs are wonderful smart dogs that are the BEST companions. But, because they are such smart, great dogs they will protect their home if they feel like it is their job AND if you are NOT the boss they will be. Take your puppy to puppy classes, socialize him or her well and you will be thrilled with your new friend.

For all of those people that call and want a blue eyed Cattle Dog/Heeler puppy.......

PUREBRED AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOGS DO NOT HAVE BLUE EYES. However an Australian Shepard can have blue eyes. If you have seen a dog that "looked" like a Blue Heeler that had blue eyes it most likely was part Australian Shepard. That does not mean that the blue eyed dog it is not a great dog, it just isn't a purebred Blue Heeler.

Here are some frequently asked questions:

bulletWhen will I pay you for the flight? 

Payment for your puppy's flight needs to be done 4-5 business days before the flight is scheduled.

bulletWhat is she shipped in and is it something I have to ship back?

She will be shipped in a hard plastic carrier, it is included in the shipping costs.

bulletWill I receive receipts and her papers in the mail before she is shipped or do all the papers get shipped with her?

All of her paperwork will be in an envelope attached to the top of the carrier.

bulletWhat will I show the airlines to prove she is my package to pickup?

You will need your photo ID to pick her up.

bulletWill there be any special care she needs immediately after I receive her in my care or will she be ok to be transported back to our home as is? Due to the time of day she will be arriving she will have to travel by vehicle for several hours to get to where we live.

I would take a plastic bag to clean out her carrier in case she has pottied in it during the flight. Don't put her out on the grass at your airport, there is no telling how many germy dogs have been on that grass. Most people hold their puppies on their way home.

bulletOur vet books up fast, should I book an appointment for a health check straight after her arrival to our home town to ensure her health from flight and is it something you require for your guarantee?

Our guarantee is on our website for you to read before purchasing a puppy from us. We would like for you to take her to your vet within 5 days of getting her. She will go to the vet a few days before her flight (her health certificate will be in the envelope on top of the carrier), this will give us all a base line as to her health. We know we have shipped you a healthy puppy and we want you to establish that you got a healthy puppy.

bulletWill her records include the sticker (shows manufacturer and serial/lot numbers) from the vaccine given and date along with date and type of dewormer given so we can continue her health care on time?

Yes, that will be on her shot and worming record included in the paperwork on top of her carrier.

 

What Breeds Make Up the Australian Cattle Dog/Blue or Red Heeler?

So what breeds were used to come up with a Blue or Red Heeler, Australian Cattle Dog or Queensland Heeler (all the same dog by the way)? The list is a lot longer than you might think! If you start from the beginning the first dog was called a Smithfield, it had heavy hair, floppy ears, a bob tail with a dark body and a white ring around it's neck, that dog was crossed with a Native Australian Dingo, the resulting dog was crossed with a Rough Coated Collie. This dog was then crossed with a Blue Smooth Highland Collie, the resulting dog was crossed back on the Dingo again. These dogs then had some Bull Terrier added to them (about 1870), to calm this little fighter down they then added Dalmation into the mix to make a more devoted loyal dog (oops! Excuse the "mix" pun!).  In case you wondered the Australian Cattle Dog was not recognized by the American Kennel Club as a purebred breed until 1980. With that in mind...... can a Heeler have spots? Can they be pure white? Can they have a natural bob tail? Can they have curly hair? Can they be brindle? .... Sure they can... it's all in the genes!

What about the Australian Cattle Dog/Blue Heeler being a Miniature Dog? We realized many years ago that people naturally gravitated towards our smaller puppies, the smaller they were the better they liked them. We set out to keep our highest quality dogs to use in our breeding program that were smallest in size. Through the years we were able to get a smaller and smaller Cattle Dog/Heeler. They are 100% Heelers with no other breed used besides a Heeler..... just years and years of selection and breeding to get a smaller maturing dog.

your puppy it's life.

Food Aggression and Crates

Thank goodness there have only been a couple of times that this has happened in the last 10-15 years, but we have had a couple of people contact us and say that their puppy that they got from us has threatened to bite them or has bit them over their food. Every time we ask what is going on at feeding time we are horrified at the torment that the puppy has been put through to receive one of his or her basic needs for survival: FOOD. Making your puppy wait until he or she is very hungry before food is even suggested and then making it eat it from your hand or sitting back while you put the food down and then making it wait and wait, not being allowed to come to the food and eat until you allow it is twisted and if you did the same thing to a child it would be called abuse. Taking a puppy and hold him down on the ground while you are on top of him trying to "force him to submit" is insane and who ever came up with that is nuts. I don't know how any other breed of dog would react to this behavior but a Heeler will eventually hate you and we don't blame them. Our dogs have food available to them 24 hours a day, there is no reason to resent us or threaten us over their food, they are happy to see us coming to fill their feeders. Feeding time here is 2 things; 1) it is time that our dogs get attention from us, 2) having food is such a non issue that it has never occurred to them to be aggressive towards us over it. Never in the near 40 years that I have been associated with Heelers have I ever had one of my dogs even have a thought cross their mind to want to hurt me over their food. Heelers LOVE their people more than their life, this is a created behavior in a Heeler and not it's normal behavior. If for any reason this has happened with your puppy send it back to us before anything bad happens to it. We will take our puppies back no questions asked.

If you work a full time job and are only home a few hours a day and those hours are spent doing house work, school work or business and the only time you would have to devote to a puppy is on the weekend, you probably don't need a puppy. If you are planning on getting a puppy and it is going to spend most of it's time in a crate you really don't need a puppy. I hate crate training, what could be a helpful part of a puppy's training for many puppies turns into a jail or place of punishment. If your home is so nice that you feel like a puppy could damage your home and it's furnishings you don't need a puppy and you really don't need a puppy from us. Getting a puppy is like planning on having a baby, if you don't have the time or patience for a baby you don't for a puppy either. If for any reason you have gotten a puppy from us, it has destroyed your favorite chair or anything else send it back to us. Or if you have gotten a puppy from us and you are tired of trying to house break it or you don't have the time for it that you thought you were going to have send it back. We will take our puppies back no questions asked.

 

Here is a question that we have been asked several times: "I recently adopted or found a Heeler puppy, I love it very much but it has bit someone or I am afraid it is going to. I want to keep my dog, what do I do?"

Here is a copy of an email that we recently sent to someone that contacted us with this question:

Has she bitten anyone yet? If the answer is yes, was it "heeling" in fun or biting from the front in an actual aggressive or protective mode? I am going to be honest and tell you that you will have a very hard time changing her mind. Heelers are dogs that have a natural instinctual desire to bite and the "hotter" they are in their working bloodlines the more aggressive they are and will continue to become as they mature. They will be their MOST aggressive from 1-4 years old, then start to mellow some. They will mature and become their best about 4 years old and after. By then if you lose her it will be worse than about any human loss you will ever experience. No one in your life will love you like YOUR Heeler.

All of that said, without knowing your girl personally, I am going to suggest 2 things for you to do right now:

1) Taking her out of situations that she is going to get herself in trouble in.

 If your yard is NOT fenced do so immediately. They can jump like a deer, one strand of electric 6-12 inches off of the ground on the inside of your yard fence will keep her backed away from it and one strand on top will keep her from jumping it. It will also keep the people and kids off of your fence that shouldn't be there bugging her anyway.

If someone is coming over that she either does not know OR does NOT LIKE and/or you have ANY question about how she is going to react to them, stick her in the back yard, in your bed room, get a kid gate and put in in the doorway of any room in your house that is going to be her place to be and put here there. She won't jump it, when she understands which side is her side.

Don't take her to Pet Smart EVER, it is a dog germ basket anyway, besides you don't want strange people and dogs touching your dog, that is usually insulting to a Heeler, they don't like it and I don't blame them (I am more Heeler than person! LOL!).

Get 2 things:

1) a muzzle, we use the black nylon kind with the end open (they can still eat and drink with one on), we will use them for a "time out" if we have a couple that are determined to get in a fight for some unknown reason or if we are having an unusually loud barking night.... sleep... it's a GOOD THING (thanks Martha Stewart!).

2) get an automatic bark collar (Pet Safe brand is the BEST for the money and will cost $30-60 depending where you get it. If a Heeler bites HEELING they will not make noise or growl, if they bite out of aggression they will bark or growl, if they bark or growl, they will hear a beep with no shock, if they continue they will get a very small shock, if they continue they will get a bigger shock. She will probably cry the first time or 2. That's good, you are training her to stop, the best lessons a person or animal learns is one they learn by their selves. That way you are NOT involved in this lesson, she is in the yard on her own figuring this one out. Take it off when she is with you, in the house etc. Only use it when she is out in the yard or in a situation where she may be a threat. Almost immediately when the bark collar goes on you will see an instant change in her behavior. The aggression will stop, she is smart enough to know what will happen next. Heelers are THINKERS and VERY VERY SMART. If you use a training collar that you control when the shock happens she will only associate the shock with you being there, so she will only act good around you and not on her own. The automatic bark collar will teach her to make the right decision if you are there or not.

#1 is the FENCE and restricting her from situations that will trigger her protective nature, #2 is the bark collar.

Good luck and I have no doubt that you will be relieved as soon as she has had a bark collar on for a couple of days.

 

Our Goal

Our goal is to produce healthy well socialized puppies. To accomplish our goal our adult dogs are kept current on their shots, wormed regularly, provided with free choice good quality high protein food. They have fresh food and water available to them 24 hours a day. Their feeding schedule is when ever they are hungry. Our mommas come into the house 2-4 weeks before they are expected to have their puppies. This is their calming down time. We will worm them several times after they get in the house and before they have their puppies. We make sure that they are free from any fleas and really eating good. That way they are strong and ready to have healthy puppies and are able to make plenty of milk for them. As soon as they have their puppies we put our mommas on Amoxicillin caps morning and night for the first week. Having puppies is stressful on their bodies and we want to make sure they are healthy and recover well from giving birth. We put Sulmet in their water and after the puppies go outside at four weeks old we soak their food as well as give them dry food, their food is top dressed with Tetracycline until they leave here. We worm our puppies every week with Safeguard and every two weeks with Pyrantel Pamoate, at 6 weeks they get their first 5 way puppy shot, are wormed with Parantel again and also given a tapeworm tablet and a half of a Capstar pill. Before they leave they are tapewormed again, get another half of a Capstar pill and one more treatment of Pyrantel. Why do we put this huge investment into our mommas and their puppies? BECAUSE WHEN YOU GET A PUPPY FROM US IT IS HEALTHY. We have a quarantined facility, our puppies have never been exposed to kennel cough, parvo or any other transmittable disease.

If you have bought or reserved a puppy from us and while it is still with us if we have a uneasy feeling about a litter or puppy, instead of sending the puppy home with you or shipping it we will contact you and suggest you pick another puppy. The litter may have gotten loose stool , we may be treating them and their mother with antibiotics, they may not be eating as aggressively as we think they should or they may be a really fussy litter of puppies. What ever the reason, if this happens and you refuse to pick a different puppy you will be taking your fist pick puppy at your own risk without a 1 year health guarantee. If we make this suggestion to you it is because we are trying to protect you and your family from being disappointed, not because we want your puppy for ourselves. Believe me, we can keep any puppy we want to before we make the litter available. We have plenty of then, we don't need yours.

Our dogs are not registered with AKC, we do not buy nor do we raise show dogs. I was USING Blue and Red Heelers to work cattle WAY before AKC or any other dog registry in the United States even recognized them as a breed.  We have no interest in making our dogs conform to someone else's opinion of a Cattle Dog. We have raised, loved and worked these dogs for more years than I want to count. To register your puppy you will use a CKC registration application, fill out the owner and witness portion of the application and send in three photos of your puppy when it is 6 months old.

We have worked very hard to provide you with very healthy puppies. Our males and females are selected for several different things. They first have to be healthy and genetically sound. Our dogs are free from genetic disease. How do we know this? Because we have been breeding Cattle Dogs for years. Our females we use now are the result of several generations of breeding. With many of these girls we can tell what their sisters, mothers, aunts and grandmothers have produced. We have purchased some of our males. None of them have come from show breeders or kennels. They have come from working ranches all over the country. All of our adult dogs go to stock. Most of our puppies never see a horse or cow after they leave us. They live in homes with their families. They are all over the United States and Canada; hiking in the mountains, playing on every beach that this country has to offer, they play in parks and make loving companions! The personality of our puppies is huge in who we decide to breed each of our girls to.  If you want a stock dog we can tell our best cross! If you want a family dog that will accept the children in your neighborhood we can also tell you which momma will produce that as well.

Our dogs do not live in kennels, cages or little pens. They live in and out of our house, in big pens with groups of their friends, they play and run continually. The high light of their day is playing fetch in the afternoons with us and barking at the our horses every chance they get.  They have children's pools that they play in all day and they live happy lives. Jessi and I spend our days caring for these dogs, they are our family. We play in every pen everyday. Because of the environment that they live in they are exposed to a variety of parasites. That is just part of animals living outside in Oklahoma. We battle fleas, ticks and worms constantly. This may be a horrible thought to you. But, it is the honest truth. If we kept them in cages inside and they lived miserable lives we could send you puppies free from parasites. That isn't the way our dogs live. We worm our puppies every two weeks from birth until they leave here. They get a flea bath the night before they ship, we use Capstar pills to kill any fleas they have on them and they are treated for tapeworms before they leave. Does that mean you won't have to worm them or treat them for fleas? No you will have to.

Docking Tails

We have been told that a Cattle Dog with a docked tail does not have good balance... well... I hate to burst that bubble but that's a crock! I really like the new thing I keep hearing "the Australian Cattle Dog uses his tail as a rudder and needs it for balance"... Sorry! They are dogs not BOATS!.... a rudder..... who comes up with this stuff? If you want a long tail on a Heeler, there is nothing wrong with that... however lets be honest. Saying something that isn't true does not make it the truth just because someone said it. Making up a lie to try to convince or force people to do something just because you want it that way is ridiculous. Many of our Cattle Dog puppies are born with natural stumpy tails, that means that they either have no tail at all at birth or a very short one. If you would like a puppy with a long natural tail we can direct you to our upcoming litters that will have natural long tails. You are welcome to take first or second pick from any litter and keep a natural tail on your puppy.

We have a one year guarantee on our puppies from their date of birth until one year old. It would give you equal credit for the purchase price only of your puppy towards any other puppy or first pick from any other litter coming up. It is a guarantee against life threatening/terminal genetic disease. Anything else is out of our control once the puppy leaves our possession.  There are a few things you have to do: 1) you have to take your puppy to have a vet check after you get it. Every puppy goes to our vet and has a complete health check before it ships. If something isn't right in that check, that puppy isn't going anywhere. So when you have a health check for your puppy after you get it then we all start off on the same page. 2) you have to keep it up on it's shots and take care of your puppy's health. 3) you have to keep your puppy. If you don't see that your puppy receives it's shots and is wormed appropriately, if you don't take it to your vet after you get it or if you give it away or resell it (big no no .... HUGE!) it's guarantee is void.

Why have I put all of this boring print on many of these pages you may ask... providing you have read it!  It is very simple; we don't want you to be surprised disappointed or confused. We aren't going to try and force you to purchase one of our puppies. It is crucial to us that our puppies are loved and well cared for.  If we all understand what we expect from each other, then if you decide that you would like to bring one of our puppies into your home, we are confident that you will be happy with it and love it. We want you to feel as if we are part of this puppy's family. We are always so excited to be included with emails and photos of it's graduation, birthdays and your family vacation, holidays and experiences.

If you have bought a puppy from us and it is still here and for any reason we get the feeling that you are not the right person for one of our puppies, we will do a return to your credit card and then notify you. Once again, we have to be comfortable that you want one of our babies and plan on loving it. If something feels wrong to us we will return your money. It is very simple, we are not desperate to sell you a puppy. Everyone has to have a good feeling at the end of the day. Then we can all be friends and everything is good.

All deposits are non refundable.

We only accept cash at our home. We still accept credit and debit cards over the phone for any puppies that are being shipped or paid for in full at the time that you pick it out. We aren't always able to make change, so just to be safe you should bring the correct amount.

We accept Visa, Master Card, debit and Wal-Mart Money Grams for phone sales.

For the health of our puppies, the soonest they can be picked up is 7 weeks old. We start shipping the litters after they turn 8 weeks old. If you insist on picking your puppy up before it is 7 weeks old the health guarantee on your puppy will be void.

Before your puppy ships to you or leaves our property if you are picking it up, we must have a signed dated copy of our guarantee in our possession, with the original signature of the person whose name is on the credit card that pays for the puppy. Our guarantee can be found here on our website; go to Dogs, then FYI then Guarantee.